Bandhani Embroidery

Introduction –

Bandhani print has gained popularity in Gujarat, Rajasthan, and Kutch Belt. They have gained immense love and admiration across the country. If you happen to visit Rajasthan, you will find men wearing turbans in a bandana print. These turbans look beautiful and unique. Bandhani term has derived from the Sanskrit word -bandh – to tie. Bandhani’s work is sold all over India. Sales usually go up during the festive and wedding seasons in India. This rich craft holds an eminent role in Gujarati weddings and it is part of the bride’s wedding attire. Bandhani is a stunning piece of art that portrays the brilliant craftsmanship

One would be amazed to know that Bride wears a Panetar sari which is the special traditional attire of Gujarati women with a border decorated by Bandhani dots during the ceremony. The bride is given a garment known as Gharchalu as a gift by the groom. One can find the Bandhani print in urban fashion with contemporary designs. One can see the designs in dress material, bags, skirts, stoles, and skirts. One can also see beautiful home décor in Bandhani materials like bedsheets, curtains, cushion covers, etc.

Origin –

Khatri community has started the Bandhani and trying to revive the age-old art.  This is an ancient art practice that was picked up during the Indus Valley civilization. Indian tie and dye started 5000 years ago. Bandhani sarees, odhnis and turbans are being produced in cities like Jaipur, Sikar, Bhilwara, Jamnagar and Gujarat. Different communities are following the tradition of tying different turbans on their head. This helps them to identify which community the person belonged to.

Technique –

The Bandhani is a highly skilled art. The technique requires dyeing a fabric that is tied tightly with a thread at different points. The colours used in Bandhani are yellow, red, blue, green and black. Dyeing is done by hand by utilizing the best colours and combinations which is possible in Bandhani.  Bandhani is tightly tied in various places to form a design and then dyed with bright colors. Post-dyeing, knots are opened that retain the original colour of the fabric that results in a beautiful form of colour and designs.

Bandhani patterns have different colours which signify different purpose. They are used for specific reasons –

• The red colour signifies a newly wedded bride. Red colour gives good fortune to the new bride
• The yellow colour suggests that the lady has given birth. Yellow is a symbol of spring and joy
• Saffron is the colour of yogi
• Black and Maroon are colours for mourning.

Challenges –

Bandhani is a dyeing process and it involves a time-consuming and tedious process. This creates a big gap between production and demand. The patterns have become bolder and individual motifs are spaced out. Many others have adopted this craft as means of supplementing family income. This has led to financial output at expense of creative quality and led to deterioration in quality. This enables to explore more freedom, creating healthy completion for everyone in industry.