This is a mud resist block printing technique which originated in Madhya Pradesh. This art is being practiced in original form. The fabric which is printed is worn by women from local tribes as their traditional attire. The intact rustic look and ancient motifs which make these nandana prints different from other printed fabrics. The craftsmen use natural dyes on cotton fabrics and age block designs which are inspired from nature.
The fabric is used by women of Bhil Tribes. Traditional attire consists of Nandana printed skirts that can be doubled as dhoti and working in fields. These are being used in garments, bedspreads, table cloths and furnishings and upholstery.
- Three factors determine the natural dyeing of cloth-type of fabric, dye bath and mordant.
- Fifteen shades of color are derived from a single plant
- Started using natural dyes instead of synthetic ones
- The rich mineral content of rivers enhanced the color of the fabric.
- Production of print is equally divided among Hindu and Muslim communities.
- Natural dye is used in craft which is considered eco-friendly.
- the indigo-dyed fabric is considered auspicious.
- Division of labour is associated with the amount of work and size of the family.
- Craftsmen have fixed working hours and work for a minimum of 16 hours a day.
- History –
- This is an ancient craft that dates back to 3000 B.C.·
- This can be traced back to Indus civilization·
- Our country was the original home of the Indian textile industry.
- Archaeological evidence states that there are traces of mordant dyeing from the second millennium. ·
- India is renowned for printed and dyed cotton cloth since the 12th century·
- The fabric got its name from linen fabric and with floral patterns and fast colors.
Design-Few of The Characteristics · –
The motifs of Nandana print are not influenced by Flora and fauna· Nomadic life of the Chippa community has brought influences from North side of India- Uttar Pradesh, Rajasthan, Gujarat and Punjab. ·
- No cultural influences on them. ·
- It is worn by unmarried women of the tribe. ·
- This fabric is symbolized fertility in some regions. ·
- This fabric is breathable fabric, so it is used in daily physical activities like farming·
- Use of dark colors are prevalent as backgrounds. Blue, green.
- Usage of few colours are used in marriages and few months in childbirth. ·
- This fabric is gifted by brother to sister on occasion of Raksha Bandhan, Diwali.
Different Types of Motifs –
- Mirchi – It is inspired from chili. The form is slightly bent towards the right side as per the background. Jalam Buta – This motif is a fruit bearing tree and upright stems flourishes into leaves, branches and flowers. The stem is printed and foliage is red and white.
- Amba- *This is both used motifs. The mango stem is bent in opposite directions. It has branches on both the sides and represent mango tree and printed in blue color which is in background.
- Dola Mary – The name is rooted in the famous love story of Rajasthan prince named doll and princess -Maru of the Poo gal Kingdom in Rajasthan.
A few of the challenges are-
- This process is time-consuming·
- Skilled workers are required to complete the process but are paid very less as compared to the number of man-hours put into practice. ·
- Traditional methods are labour intensive·
- Designs and patterns are varied as per the customer
- The decline in the volume of production for a few years ·
- Training given to craftsmen has witnessed steep effects·
- Craftsmen have moved from low salaries to a more stable source of income.