This fabric has derived its name from which means silk fabric. This fabric is famous as legendary heritage of Indian textiles from north Gujarat. Single Ikat fabric which threads are dyed into complicated pattern that belongs to one of the most complex textiles wearing techniques and it is expensive.
This fabric has roots from Janta caves, in wall paintings in Karla found in and palaces in 17th century and 18th century. This fabric was used in Ramayana in marriage as holy charm dressing. Even during Ram Rajya period – King Janak has presented Patola to Sita who was Lord Ram’s wife. . Harshitha Mehta was a great devotee of Lord Krishna has presented Patola These sarees became social status symbol among Gujarati women and girls, which is part of their bridal dress. These items women can claim as their own property within marital household. This cloth was considered as holy cloth in Indonesia, Thailand and Malaysia. It was believed that this fabric had magic powers that could protect from evil.
This cloth as believed from the experts are famous to bring in luck, prosperity. This saree has been passed from one generation to generation or worn during baby showers. The design on both the side are same. These sarees can be survived over century without getting damaged. The sarees represent royalty in every aspect. The good charms like elephant, peacock and flash are considered as Shubhagya. The technique makes it unique by dyeing the weft in character of motifs and then weaving it through plain warp which brings out the beauty of motifs in the process.
This fabric has royal history. The silk weavers from Karnataka and Maharashtra chose Gujarat as home for renowned Payola fabric. There has been practice of payola craft which is wearing for several generations. The craft started diminishing and started leaving this craft for better livelihood. This also gives birth to craft of single Ikat patola weaving, which was thriving in Rajkot.
Design-Let’s see few characteristics of Payola saree-·
- Sari length ranges from 5 to 9 yards, by 45 to 54 widths. ·
- Fabric is used to include borders, scarves, handkerchiefs. ·
- Deign include motifs such as plan, crowd, Rats, cloth, Narayana, Erica. ·
- These are made on graph paper. · – Flowers, birds, human figures form the basic designs. ·
- Geometrical designs using the vegetable dyes are develops and displayed. ·
- These patterns are displays in Indian festival? Parts, London, Tokyo, Washington.
- Designs are made on papers to achieve the accuracy and transferred to looms with great care. ·
- It takes 1.5 years to complete payola saree.
This craft has faced the challenge of losing its originality form in the process of fitting and existing in machine-oriented world. The traditional design of weaving saree which takes 1.5 year is losing its charm. This picking of design elements from machine made sarees go hand in hand with the market.