There has been existence of zardozi from Rig Veda. There has been timeless embroidery hand drafted which is authentically done by artisans. Zardozi is derived from combination of two words – Zar means gold and doz means hand sewing with embroidery.
The beautiful metal thread embroidery used to enrich the attire of kings and royalty in India. The Akbar treasure include stitches garments which is metal embellished embroidery. These work involves using golden threads or silver threads. One can also see the previous stones and golden streams. The pieces used are timeless which is passed down generations just like this craft. There is one state which is practice in it’s traditional and authentic way. They are used in purses which is being used by begums of Bhopal.
It has contribution to make them magnificent and lavish. It is favourites among brides who want to look extravagant and lavish on their weddings. It can be seen on bridal trousseau. It is an important part of culture and used by designers.
Zardosi requires high level of expertise and skill. The stitches should be ideally of one size. Zardosi work is done by using needle and zardosi is done using varieties of embroidery needles. As women of the household uses to sit and work on the fabric after daily chores and craft evolved like using these techniques. These women used to meticulously work on minute details and churn out delicate beautiful patterns. There is an important part cardio play in handicraft exports since 2007.
Designs are unique and fabric look rich and loyal. Thee zardosi designs look expensive. There are unique designs on zari threads. Some of the intricate design are divided into three different categories –
ﾷ Gijai – These thin and stiff wire is used to make intricate patterns
ﾷ Star shaped zaru thread – it is used for floral designs
ﾷ Kalabattu – zari or golden thread is used in end necklaces , purses or tasels.
ﾷ Tikora- Gold zari thread is used in twisted form in delicate designs. There are different typed of stitched to create zardosi embroidery.
Patterns are having importance in dimension and thickness. There are elaborate and delicate intricate patterns. Motifs are also inspired from nature, flowers , leaves , trees and birds. Geometrical and abstract motifs which is inspired from Persian art are commonly used. There are different type of zardosi designs and patterns being used.
ﾷ Kinari work
ﾷ Real Zari /Zardosi
ﾷ Imitation zari
ﾷ Metallic Zari.
ﾷ Craftsmen consider this art as source of income. Middle men supplies the embroidered products to exporter. But artisans don’t get the amount from sale of zardosi wat they deserve.
ﾷ Not satisfied with wages. Artisans work hard as zardozi embroidery is time consuming and intricate art. Wages are less to sustain the family.
ﾷ There are lot of medical problems like back pain, eye strain or neck pain.
ﾷ These artisans belong to rural areas, they are not aware about government schemes and policies. As these benefits don’t reach these artisans and their families.
ﾷ Due to increase in number of artisans, completion has increased. Introduction of zardosi is important and is done by designers on new items.
ﾷ Due to Covid, production of zardosi has been affected. Many artists are working on this craft.
ﾷ Demand as well as production for Zardozi has been affected due to Covid. Many artists have worked on craft since long time.